白酒配白酒，紅酒配紅肉，這樣一成不變的餐酒規律對這間名廚主持的西班牙二星餐廳來說，單調乏味了些。
看到這份手寫的wine pairing酒單，本來侍酒師打算用Denis Mortet Bourgogne搭配第一道主菜比目魚，起初我好奇這魚肉的烹飪方式如何與Pinot Noir搭配，後來還是因為覺得這隻酒的味道很熟悉，加上既然紅酒都要拿出來配了，那有沒有比Pinot Noir這種本身就清淡酒體更有趣的選擇呢？於是我就任性的請他換了一下。
上桌的Santa Cruz de Artazu Grenache 2012果味豐盈，酒體中等偏低，香料味點綴的恰如其分，再看看盤中魚肉醬汁也不是中式料理大鳴大放的紅燒、茄汁、豆瓣之類的濃厚口感。好奇如我一定要向侍酒師一探究竟！
醃魚肉的醬汁共有五味，白酒、奶油、香菜、蒜頭、醋為食物和酒之間搭起橋樑，侍酒師亦無私分享只要魚肉質地不要太細,肉本身味道豐富，紅酒輕盈、果香馥郁，兩者兼備就可以玩起酒食搭配的遊戲，果真，讀萬卷書、行萬里路，書上的理論親身參與印象好鮮明啊⋯⋯
---
Pairing white wine with fish is apparently too boring for the sommeliers at LASARTE. The wine pairing plans are hand written in a notebook and constantly change to accommodate diners or to include new interesting wine arrivals. They originally picked Denis Mortet Bourgogne to go with Turbot but I was thinking since they decided to do red wine, maybe there is a more interesting possibility. So I gently requested to change this one and look forward the results.
The jammy and fragrant Santa Cruz de Artazu Grenache 2012 played her role just right. The fish wasn't cooked with heavy Chinese style sauce but still a perfect match for this dish. I couldn't help myself but asking for the secret for his wine selection. The staff explained that chef Martín Berasategui developed a "mother sauce" with very simple (but secret) ingredients that they use as a bridge to connect the two. In cases where they pick "meatier" fish to go with a less tannin and lighter body bottle of wine, they actually work well together. They chemistry is just cute and surprising. Salud to the chef and sommeliers!
Search